Bonsai Containers, Soils, Location

Bonsai containers

The art of creating unique, beautiful ceramic containers for bonsai by hand has been a long-standing tradition in China and Japan and is as old as the art of bonsai itself. In the West, many countries by now have famous collections of precious bonsai trays and bowls; some are very simple, while others are richly decorated.

The container for a bonsai is often compared to the frame for a picture. As with the frame of a work of art, the bonsai container can complement the character of a plant or serve as a counterpoint to the whole. Choosing the right container, in terms of size, color, and shape, for a specific bonsai tree is a highly developed art.

We basically distinguish among round, oval, rectangular, square, six-and eight-sided containers, and containers that are shaped like a flower. They may be deep or shallow, have a flat bottom or have feet, and be glazed and decorated or plain.

The more sure you are about what kind of container you want, for the plant as well as for the ambiance of the room where the plant will be, the more patience is required to find the right one. Strolling through a good specialty store will surely be worth your while. The gardening store of a botanical garden is another likely place to look for bonsai containers.

As a rule, the length of the container should be two-thirds of the height of the bonsai tree. If the indoor bonsai is wider than it is tall, which is seldom the case, choose a container that is two-thirds as wide as the plant.

The depth of the container should be proportionate to the diameter of the bonsai trunk, or, in the case of a group of trees, the diameter of the trunk of the largest tree. The sides of a container may be straight, on an angle, rounded, or flowing. A container with straight sides is best for a bonsai that has a strong "personality," while round containers complement softer and slanted forms of bonsai. With flat, rectangular, and oval containers, the longer side is always considered the front side.

When choosing a container always make sure that the inside of the container is not glazed.

Flat containers that are either square or six-sided usually are placed with straight side facing the front. However, the container can also be turned so that a corner is facing the front.

If a container is very deep, either a straight side or a corner can face forward. Deep six- and eight-sided containers are positioned so that a corner is facing the room.

It is not unusual for true bonsai enthusiasts, who have made their indoor bonsai pan of the ambiance of their home, to develop another hobby: that of collecting old, valuable containers. Old, handmade pieces, with their classical beauty, by far outshine even precious modern bowls. Old containers may be decorated with ornaments, made of porcelain, or be painted. However, the most impressive seem to be those that, following in a rich tradition, have been created in stunning simplicity.

Bonsai soils

Bonsai soil is much misunderstood; yet it is perhaps the most basic horticultural aspect of bonsai. Some people plant their bonsai in soil dug straight from the garden, while at the other extreme, there are those who use nothing but pure artificial medium. The ideal, however, lies somewhere between the two.

It is widely accepted by gardeners the world over that soil which is too stony, too sandy, too peaty, or too clayey is not ideal for plants. In fact, sandy loam is generally regarded as the ideal planting medium. This implies good drainage and, at the same time, an ability to retain sufficient moisture. In addition, the soil for bonsai must contain sufficient humus to maintain the vitally important micro-organisms, and enough plant food for healthy bonsai growth.

The general nature of these requirements means that their application can be subject to wide interpretation. However, essentially, a reasonable bonsai soil should consist of a fairly uniform mix of loam, peat and sand, with some plant food mixed in. The importance of good drainage cannot be emphasized too strongly, as the roots require air. The presence of coarse sand or grit in the bonsai compost should ensure good aeration.

A good compost, therefore, is a well-balanced one. The proportions of each of the basic ingredients, however, will vary according to the species of tree grown. Thus, pines and junipers will thrive in a compost which is made up principally of sand; rhododendrons and azaleas like a peaty compost; while flowering trees, such as wisteria and crab apple, prefer plenty of loam.

Experimentation, followed by observation, is the best way of finding out which compost mix is best suited to a particular species. If in doubt, a good basic recipe is one which consists of equal parts of peat, sharp sand, and loam. To improve drainage, increase the proportion of sharp sand; for pines and junipers the proportion of sand can be as high as 70-80 percent.

Bonsai location

The placement of bonsai is another important factor in their success. Bonsai should not be kept indoors, unless you are growing a tropical species in the northern hemisphere. Even then, indoor conditions will never be ideal, for most bonsai need sunshine, fresh air and rain for healthy growth.

There is much debate as to whether full sun or shade conditions are best for bonsai. Basically, there is no hard and fast rule: it largely depends on the species, and also on local climatic conditions. Pines and junipers, for instance, enjoy full sun, while maples and other deciduous trees prefer partial shade. This can be provided by placing them in a position where they receive early morning sun, but are shaded during the afternoon. Shade netting is used extensively in the tropics to prevent leaves from being scorched and to keep plants cool, and serves as a useful shade alternative in other parts of the world.

Winter protection of trees is essential where temperatures fall below -4°C (25°F). In such circumstances, it is advisable to protect your bonsai by placing them in a cool greenhouse, or under display benches covered with glass or polythene sheeting. Drafts are highly detrimental to frozen bonsai as the wind chill factor can exacerbate the effects of the cold. It is advisable to protect vulnerable species such as trident maples, by sinking the pot or the root ball into a deep bed of sphagnum moss peat. Evergreens generally benefit from some exposure to the cold: over- protection of pines and junipers, for instance, will induce sappy growth.

In very cold climates, where winter temperatures fall below -10°C (14°F), the more tender species, such as trident maples and pomegranates, should be over wintered in cool dry sheds or cellars. Light is not essential for deciduous species, but evergreens must never be kept in dark places for more than two weeks at a time or they will turn yellow.

From time to time, you should check the root balls of your trees to make sure that the soil has not dried out completely -they should always be slightly moist.

In Mediterranean and tropical climates, winter protection of bonsai is unnecessary. However, some species need cold conditions to induce dormancy and to enable the trees to shed leaves, or to produce flowers and fruit. If varieties such as Japanese maples, crab apples, larch and beech do not have cold conditions, they will be unable to go through their natural growing cycles, and will thus soon weaken and die. Many bonsai enthusiasts in places such as California, or the Mediterranean countries provide their bonsai with a period of artificial dormancy by putting them in cold store. Only in this way can the trees be induced to flower and fruit. Unfortunately, though, good fall colors cannot be produced easily by artificial means.