Bonsai Landscapes

During the Tang Dynasty, when the fine arts in general were at a peak, the bonsai culture also developed to new heights. For the first time, whole bonsai landscapes were planted on a tray.

The planting and cultivation of miniature landscapes combined with great imagination the observations that gardeners made of nature and architecture. The creation of Chinese bonsai landscapes, almost playful in design, does not and never has adhered to formal rules, often including small, artistically created clay figurines, houses, temples, and water.

From the Chinese bonsai landscape, the classical, austere group and rock plantings were a natural next step, which developed later in Japan. Many variations on this theme are possible; however, they must include only three elements: plants, stones, and earth.

A small bonsai forest in the house

For every bonsai enthusiast, particularly for the "old hand," there comes a time when creating an indoor forest is a must. Such creation brings into the house the exotic charm of a rain forest or the dream of having a romantic grouping of several trees.

Particularly suited for an indoor forest are small-leafed plants, such as the small-leafed Ficus, Serissa, Carmona, myrtle, or elm.

Plants as young as two to six years old can easily be used to create an indoor forest, which means that you don't have to spend a fortune. The minimum number of trees is 5, better yet, 7, or 9, or more, of different heights and trunk size. Most important, it must be an uneven number.

A very important tip: if you want to create a mixed forest, choose plants that have the same or similar needs. If they are not compatible on that score, it will become very difficult to care for your bonsai forest.

When you plan your bonsai forest and start looking for bonsai trees, keep in mind how groups of trees appear in nature. In nature, every tree is different. One tree might be the "father"-that is, distinctly larger and stronger than the others-tempting you to arrange the grouping like a family photo. But it is best to disregard this idea, which suggests that the smallest ones are always in front.

In the case of an indoor forest, it is just the opposite, because the smaller ones are planted behind the tall ones, which gives a group of trees more depth visually. Even more interesting effects can be created if you use ferns and other low-growing plants; they provide variety to the landscape and replicate the floor of the forest as it is found in nature.

Imagine that you are looking over the shoulders of a bonsai master planting an indoor forest, as you carry out each step in planting your own. For this small forest, choose nine Ficus neriifolia plants (rubber trees) of differing sizes and heights. Plan your bonsai forest as you would the building of a house. Choose a bonsai container with care, one that is rather plain or, in any case, flat.

You will need some low-growing plants as well as soil. Have all the necessary tools at hand: container, earth, mesh, wire, a pair of root cutting pliers, a pair of bonsai scissors, and wooden picks.

Draw the outline of the container you are going to use on a piece of craft paper, or newspaper; then copy the arrangement of the trees (including the numbers), shown in the drawing at the left, onto your drawing.

Prepare the plants by taking them out of their pots, cutting roots back by a third, and removing large leaves and branches that you don't need or that are too long. Line the plants up according to their height. Now you can begin to plant the first bonsai tree.

The trees that are planted on the outside are turned so that their strong branches are pointing to the outside. Use more soil as needed.

When all bonsai trees are in place, water thoroughly; you may also fertilize at this time. All you have to do now is care for your little bonsai forest as you do any other bonsai: water carefully, less rather than more, and keep it in a bright location but not in direct sunlight. New growth (new leaves and roots) is a sign that the bonsai trees are doing well. At this point, you may increase watering and feeding. Your bonsai forest needs to be transplanted after two years-just like the other bonsai plants. The trees will have developed one root system and should be treated as one plant.

From one indoor plant, a forest grows

Nature possesses boundless imagination when it comes to growing things, and most of the time we only become aware of it when we take up gardening as a hobby-when we try to imitate it. Creating a bonsai forest -growing a group of trees in one container that originate from an individual potted plant-rests on two principles: (1) thin branches and twigs will develop roots when put into the soil (the principle of layering); and (2) branches always grow upwards, towards the light.

The Ficus benjamina 'Natasha' is a houseplant well suited for creating an indoor forest. This is the way to proceed:

• Look at the plant and determine which is its "good side," meaning the side with the longest and most numerous branches, since these are the branches that later will grow upwards.
• Cut off all small twigs and leaves that grow in the immediate vicinity of the trunk. Wire the whole trunk from the base to the tip so that you can bend it.
• Branches and twigs that can easily be bent towards the "good side" are tied together loosely with bonsai wire. The more branches you can tie together, the more trees you will have for your little forest. The top of the tree is bent to the left.
• Remove the branches that remain on the "thin" side. Make sure that the lower third of the branches that you have tied together are free of small twigs and leaves. With a sharp knife-on the bare side of the trunk-remove about 3/4 inch (2 cm) of bark every 1 1/4 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm). The trunk will develop roots from these incisions when they come in contact with soil.
• The plant prepared in this way is now removed from its container. Reduce the root ball drastically, leaving only enough root fibres as are necessary for the tree to be supplied with a minimum amount of nutrition.
• The trunk and the remaining root ball are now planted horizontally in a long bonsai bowl or a flower box and covered with about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches (3 to 4 cm) of soil.

Build a little mound around the root ball. The branches and twigs remain tied together until they are used to the new direction in which they are to grow and are able to support themselves. In about 4 to 6 months, this little bonsai forest will most likely be able to maintain itself through newly formed roots. When transplanting, check to see if they are there. If so, you may cut off the old root ball. In the beginning, water sparingly, and for 6 to 8 weeks do not expose it to direct sunlight. Regular pruning of the individual trees will make your bonsai forest more beautiful and denser.

Rock planting

There are two basic forms:

Clinging to a Rock

Plants that grow out of a rock do so literally without ever coming in contact with the ground. Look for stones with a rough surface that also have crevices, ridges, and cracks. Any well-shaped stone will do. You can find them in nature, but they can also be bought at a bonsai specialty store. If the crevices in the rock are not deep enough for holding the necessary roots and earth, do not hesitate to use a hammer and a chisel to make them bigger. The shape of the rock determines how the plants are arranged. Start by first placing three wire loops in each indentation or ridge where you intend to put a plant (two-component epoxy resin stone glue is good to attach them).
The loops should form a triangle large enough to accommodate the root ball of the plant. Now cover the cavity with a 3/4-inch (2 cm) layer of peat moss-loam mixture (50: 50), place the plant with the root ball into the cavity, and secure it with the wire. Do not cut the roots that extend beyond the cavity, but rather spread them over the rock and cover them with the peat moss-loam mixture.
After the bonsai plants are in place, do the secondary planting as follows: plant low-growing, but fast-growing creeping evergreen plants, which will prevent the loss of soil when you water. The best plants used for this outdoors are mosses.
The secondary planting should include only low-growing plants. Cut them back, as you would your lawn, whenever they get too tall. Place the planted rock on a tray filled with either water or sand. Flood the rock often, since rocks have a tendency to dry out quickly. Water carefully to prevent loss of soil. Feed your bonsai-rock landscape for the first time after about 8 weeks with liquid fertilizer. It is necessary to replace lost earth from time to time.

Root over rock

One day you may find a particularly beautiful rock and-more often than not-that will be the beginning of an interesting, perhaps whimsical, bonsai landscape. Look closely at your find, and determine which side should face the room. Remove the plant you have chosen from its container, wash its roots, and determine its most beautiful side. This will be the side of the plant that faces the room. Place the bonsai plant on top of the rock, and pull its roots over it and down so the ends extend beyond the rock. Now wrap the rock with a soft material, but tightly enough to hold the roots in place. (A plastic bag cut into strips makes good wrapping material.) Make sure the roots on the rock are completely covered.
The reason for wrapping the rock is that the wrapped roots are kept in place. It also prevents the roots from developing new little roots on the rock instead of in the soil. Now "plant" the rock with its exposed roots sticking out below in a bonsai container or a flowerpot filled with bonsai soil.
The height of the container should be the same as the height of the rock. Cover the roots extending beyond the rock with soil, press down firmly, and water generously. In about one-half year, depending on the type of plant, a root ball may have developed under the rock. Carefully remove the rock with the plant from its container, remove the plastic bandage and those roots that are small and dried out, and carefully, gently clean the roots on the rock.
Transfer the rock and plant-after careful pruning of the root system-to an appropriate bonsai container. Add a secondary planting. After 6 to 8 weeks-when the low-growing plants have established new roots-you can start regular care.
Sometimes a bonsai gardener wants to grow a particular plant over a particular rock even if the roots are not long enough to reach the soil and won't be able to get the necessary nutrition. You can overcome this problem by placing the rock with the plant in a heavy plastic bag with a few drainage holes. Fill the bag with equal parts of peat moss and sand or ready-made bonsai soil.
About every 8 to 12 weeks, turn down the plastic bag by 2 inches (5 cm) or so, removing the excess soil around the roots on top. In this way, the plant and the rock "grows" slowly out of the bag. An increasingly larger portion of the roots become exposed, and the roots that are still covered grow faster. The small tree is ready for transplanting when the plastic bag is only 2 inches (5 cm) tall and most of the roots are exposed.

Picturesque indoor bonsai for an indoor environment

The basic idea is very simple: the climate in our houses, particularly during the heating season, is frequently dry and unhealthy. Most of the humidifiers are technical monsters that use a lot of energy, are aesthetically not very appealing, and their value, as far as our health is concerned, is very controversial. Containers filled with water have none of the negatives but are in general not very attractive. Enthusiasts of indoor gardening have a simple plant "humidifier," which not only improves the environment but adds charm to the indoor bonsai you already have.

Those of us who don't like appliances and are creative can plant both easy-to-grow and more demanding plants in a simple container filled with water and let that be our alternative to an electric humidifier. Such a container, when placed between or near other bonsai plants, conveys a sense of quiet as well as drawing attention to the small trees that are close to it. Water gardens can round out the natural appearance of an indoor collection, giving it an added charm and serenity.

A water garden can include many different plants and beautiful rocks, providing a perfect arena in which to be playful and imaginative. The number of plants that grow well and are comfortable in this natural humidifier is large: water grasses, water lilies, and many more. If these aquatic plants become too tall, just cut them back. The necessary nutrition is provided exclusively through the water; for this reason, the water level should never be too low. A water filter can be used to soften the water and provide nutrients.

The water fountain garden

The water fountain garden is an interesting and very beautiful way to improve the climate in your home. Even if it is a bit more complicated than the water garden, it's worth it. The fountain consists of a rock on which plants grow and from and over which water flows.

• Look for a well-shaped rock, and choose a container whose base is at least twice as big as that of the rock and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep.
• Drill a hole in the rock. This hole must be large enough to accommodate a small electrical pump.
• From the indentation that holds the pump to where the water is to exit, drill a connecting channel wide enough to accommodate a water hose, usually 5/8 to 3/4 inch (1.5 to 2 cm) in diameter.
• To take full advantage of the water-fountain technique, first: make sure that the electrical pump is energy-efficient, and maintenance-free. Now, insert the water hose, with a filter, in the channel you drilled from the underside of the rock.
• Next, place the rock asymmetrically, as with all bonsai plantings, in the water-filled bowl, and attach your plants. Fill small indentations in the rock with low-growing plants, which are particularly beautiful as they "play" in the water.

The water filter is situated in a place where it cannot be seen. It softens the water and provides nutrients. Most water filters must be replaced twice a year. When everything is in place, the water is pumped over the edge of the rock, creating a charming, playful scene, while adding humidity to the air.

If you replenish the water as needed and replace the nutrition-supplying water filter, the water fountain will serve you well, and your plants will stay healthy. One more tip: make sure that you clean the water filter regularly.