Hostas In The Garden

So much have hostas come to the fore in modern gardens that it is difficult to imagine gardening without them. Their contribution is unique. No other hardy plant has such sumptuous and richly colored foliage, nor is so distinct both in leaf outline and clump shape. Not only do they look good as individual specimens, they also lend themselves to planting in drifts of the same variety, or of mixed varieties. The important thing is to choose the right hosta for the right place, for plainly the hostas which in the wild enjoy hot, sunny positions will scarcely survive in shade at the pond- or stream-side or in a bog, while the moisture-lovers will not last long in hot sunny places. Fortunately most hostas have cultural requirements that fall midway between these extremes and are relatively easy to suit in the garden.

Woodland gardens

Hostas are often grown in woodland conditions because the shade cast by the trees ensures that the leaves remain in good condition far longer than they would were they to be grown without shade. The disadvantage of woodland is that the ground often becomes very dry in summer and before planting some thought should be given as to how the hostas will be watered. If it is necessary to install underground irrigation pipes, this is best done before planting begins. Some consideration should also be given to the density of the woodland and to the amount of shade cast by the trees. Hostas grow best at the edge of woodland or in woodland glades or clearings where the shade is not too deep. It is often necessary to thin the trees and to raise the canopy by removing lower branches. However, raising the canopy may produce the odd effect of the woodland consisting mainly of relatively thin stems all pointing straight up to the sky and may also let in destructive winds. Both problems can be solved by planting an under storey of shrubs and small trees. Stewartias and halesias are ideal for this, as are the Japanese and other ornamental maples, as well as some magnolias. To cut down the flow of wind through the woodland a structural planting mainly of evergreen shrubs is usually necessary. Many hollies are ideal, as are viburnums, aucubas (especially the narrow leaved forms), skimmias and such deciduous shrubs as corylopsis, fothergilla, summer-sweet (Clethra alnifolia) and disanthus. Rhododendrons may also be suitable, especially those with distinct foliage, such as R. makinoi, R. yakushimanun, R. smirnowii and R. hyperythrum, with rolled leaves and rusty indumentum.

Woodland areas are among the most inviting of places to plant. Since they are often larger than manicured gardens they tempt the gardener to plant in bold drifts and groups, often following the contours of the land. This rather restful style is particularly well-suited to woodlands. While most hostas grow into dense, rounded mounds, there are quite a number that naturally grow into drifts or seed themselves without losing their identity. H. clausa is stoloniferous in all its forms. H. c. 'Normalis' is the form whose flowers open normally; flowers are deep lilac-purple and among the best in the genus. H. 'Tapis Vert', another H. clausa selection, is, as its name suggests, a green carpeter. H. 'Birchwood Parky's Gold'., with its greyish-yellow heart-shaped leaves and pleasing lavender flowers, is another that spreads, as does the muted, yellow-margined H. 'Fool's Gold'. Several variegated hostas with strap- or lance- shaped leaves soon make good ground cover: H. 'Resonance' is excellent for this purpose, as are H. 'Bold Ribbons', H. 'Neat Splash', H. 'Yellow Splash', H. 'Yellow Splash Rim' and H. 'Ground Master'. Many forms and selections of H. sieboldii both run and seed themselves. H. s. 'Alba', with white flowers, is particularly effective in woodland, as is H. 'Purple Lady Finger', whose deep purple flowers never open, and H. 'Tall Twister', also with dark flowers. H. 'Lancifolia' is another with narrow leaves and dark flowers that spreads quite quickly, making a dense ground cover of glossy leaves. Similar effects can also be created by using clump-forming hostas in drifts. Larger clump-forming hostas such as H. 'Big Mama' or H. 'Krossa Regal' can be used as specimens in the midst of these drifts.

Other plants that lend themselves readily to mixing with hostas in a woodland setting include martagon lilies (Lilium martagon) and ginger lilies (Hedychium), arisaemas, toad lilies (Tricyrtis) lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) , columbines (Aquilegia), Solomon's seal (Polygonatum) and the annual smyrniums, astilbes (where there is enough moisture) and ajugas, as well as sedges and woodrushes whose narrow leaves emphasize the sheer width of hosta leaves.

Waterside planting

Most of the hostas that grow in the wild in very wet ground such as H. alismifolia and H.  atropurpurea are extremely rare in cultivation or difficult to grow, or else too small to achieve a luxuriant waterside effect, while those hostas which best create a lush appearance will mostly not thrive in places where their roots are permanently wet. The strategy is therefore either to plant the hostas on mounds at the water's edge, or to plant them a little further away from the water where the soil is drier, so that the crowns are dry but the roots have access to plenty of water. Which are used will depend on whether the planting is in sun or shade.

In sun most of the best are hybrids derived from H. plantaginea, such as the green-leaved, white-flowered H. 'Royal Standard', the lilac tinted, white-flowered H. 'Honeybells' and the lavender-flowered H. 'Flower Power', all of which are reasonably priced enough to group in large drifts. Similarly easily available, if a yellow-edged hosta is wanted, is H. 'Fortunei Aureomarginata', which is vigorous enough to clothe long stretches of a sunny streamside and bears its tall spires of lavender flowers for weeks on end.

Moisture-loving irises such as Iris laevigata, I. sibirica and I. pseudacorus, with their stiffly upright, narrowly sword-shaped leaves, make an excellent foil to the rounded shapes of the hostas, while astilbes with their lacy foliage and fluffy flowers create a soft haze which throws the well-defined foliage of the hostas into even sharper focus. Daylilies, now available in an ever-wider range of colors, will also flourish at the waterside. The planting of bog and waterside areas is usually most effective when it is done in bold groups and drifts, with the plants set quite close together, in the way that bog plants tend to grow in the wild.

In shade the range of hostas and other plants that can be grown beside water is far greater. Indeed, most hostas will be happy in such a situation, though many yellow-leaved sorts will remain chartreuse-green rather than yellow. Many large hostas look particularly good in such situations: for example, the various forms of H. montana and H. sieboldiana 'Elegans', with drifts of hostas with very tall flower scapes behind them, such as H. 'Krossa Regal', the dignified H. nigrescens, the showy H. 'Tall Boy' and, tallest of all, H. 'Tenryu', with its 2.1m (7ft) spikes. In the foreground, the picture can be completed with drifts of smaller hostas such as H. 'Undulata' in almost any of its forms; they all seem happy planted just above the waterline and hostas with strap-shaped leaves such as H. rectifolia 'Chionea" or H. 'Neat Splash Rim' are stoloniferous and will soon form long drifts.

There is a wealth of moisture-loving plants to grow with hostas in moist shade. Others with bold but contrasting foliage include the ornamental rhubarbs (Rheum), which have leaves as large as or larger than those of the hostas but often tinted red or maroon and with jagged edges, and rodgersias, which have equally bold, lobed foliage of varying tenures in shades of green and dark red. Much finer foliage can be provided by ferns such as the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) and the sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis), which are only happy in very wet conditions, and by some bamboos which also like it wet, Fargesia nitida and F. spathacea being particularly good: both are densely clump-forming and make fountain-shaped plants. The exotic South American chusqueas enjoy equally wet conditions but are stiffly upright. Candelabra primulas make a lovely show when massed on the wetter ground between the hostas and the water's edge and flower for several weeks at midsummer, as do the moisture-loving Bellingham hybrid lilies which follow on in flower.

Sunny borders

Some time ago a hosta border in the sun would not even have been contemplated because there were only two or three hostas that could be grown successfully and all had green leaves and white or near-white flowers. Now there is not only a sufficient number to make it worthwhile but also a sufficient variety to make it interesting.

The starting point for these has been the sun-loving H. plantaginea from China, which is unfortunately one of the most difficult hostas to breed from. Both Paul Aden and Kevin Vaughan, who set out to raise hostas with larger, more interesting flowers, used H. plantaginea to put an infusion of new genes into the process and found that when crossed with normally shade-loving hostas they not only became tolerant of sun but also inherited some of the exotic, heady fragrance of H. plantaginea.

Previously unthought-of late-summer effects can be achieved with these new hostas in the sun. At the foot of a sunny wall they can have an almost tropical appearance, especially the larger sorts, when grown with the spiky foliage of phormiums, yuccas and kniphofias, the strap-shaped leaves of agapanthus and daylilies, and the grass-like foliage of crocosmias. Such plantings will provide not only color but also interest and shape in the border at a time when more traditional border plantings are past their best. The garden in late summer has quite a different light from earlier, and more exotic plantings seem quite in keeping with even the most tranquil of summer gardens.

Still hotter effects could be created using some of the yellow-leaved hostas which color best in sun, such as H. 'August Moon', H. 'Fragrant Gold', H. 'Midas Touch', H. 'Super Bowl' and H. 'Golden Medallion', their matt leaves perhaps contrasted with the glossier green leaves of H. 'Invincible' or the satiny-textured H. 'Sweetie', which is chartreuse to yellow with a white margin. These could be mixed with clumps of yellow-variegated yuccas such as Yucca filamentosa 'Bright Edge' or Y. flaccida 'Golden Sword', or with yellow-striped phormiums such as the upright Phormium tenax 'Radiance' .

Shaded borders

The best shaded borders in which to grow hostas are those at the foot of a north wall (in the northern hemisphere). Hosta leaves look wonderful when planted against or near walls of whatever construction. The great advantage of walls (and indeed of fences) is that although they cast shade the hostas are still open to the sky above, which means that they are growing in good light. The disadvantage of walls is that they may cast a rain shadow, and the taller the wall the more of a problem this can be, so some provision needs to be made to ensure sufficient moisture: seep hoses are ideal in this situation.

At ground level evergreen ferns such as Polystichum setiferum and its forms can help to provide a setting for the hostas, as can both the Christmas and the sword ferns, P. munitum and P. acrostichoides, which look charming with snowdrops and help to cover their dying foliage. Deciduous ferns can also help to set the stage especially the silver-grey Japanese painted fern Athyrium niponicum var. pictum and the claret-mid-ribbed Athyrium otophorum var. okanum, while the delicately fern-like woodland rue, thrives on retentive soil and light shade and looks marvelous enveloping either Hosta 'Francee' or H. 'Patriot' in the soft haze of its dark-green foliage.

Among the best companions for hostas in the shade are the dicentras, pulmonarias and heucheras. The mulberry-colored lockets and pale glaucous grey lacy leaves of Dicentra 'Bacchanal' and D. 'Luxuriant' accentuate the intense frosty blue hues of Hosta 'Betcher's Blue' and H. 'Blue Vision'. The pulmonarias, with their hairy, rough-textured leaves, enjoy just the same conditions of dappled shade and well-worked, moisture-retentive soil as hostas, and their intricately marked leaves make the glaucous-blue foliage of hostas such as H. 'Blue Skies' or H. 'Devon Blue' look positively restful.

There is a tendency for plantings in the shade to be dominated by rounded shapes such as those of hostas, if only because there are relatively few plants of vertical habit which thrive in shade. Astilbes, with their upright spikes of flowers, are one obvious solution, but only if it is relatively damp. Irises provide another, especially Iris foetidissima in its various forms, the 1.2cm (4ft) tall, white-flowered I. orientalis and the shorter I. spuria; most forms of I. sibirica will take some shade, but not too much. Another possibility is to use foxgloves, which are nothing if not vertical, and Japanese anemones, whose flowering stems are again strongly vertical.

Courtyards

Because hostas look so good growing against buildings and architectural or hard landscape features, courtyards and terraces can provide ideal settings for them. Brightly variegated hostas might well create an inappropriately restless feeling, as would a great variety of different sorts of vegetation. It might also be tempting to plant large numbers of smaller hostas, rather than fewer larger ones.

The best forms of hostas to grow in small courtyards are generally those with plain leaves. Among the best of the green-leaved forms for this purpose are H. 'Green Acres', which grows waist high and 1. 2m (4ft) across, its huge, deeply corrugated green leaves hanging almost vertically from the tips of the petioles, or the much smaller H. 'Invincible', whose stiff, olive-green leaves are held nearly horizontally and appear almost polished. Grey or blue-leaved hostas may be preferable, since these colors have a receding effect, making small spaces seem larger. First choices in this case would be H. sieboldiana 'Elegans', H. 'Big Daddy', H. 'Snowden' or H. 'Halcyon', H. 'Tokudama' or H. 'Buckshaw Blue'.

In sunny courtyards the fragrant hybrids of H. plantaginea will flourish, the enclosing walls trapping the exotic scents of the flowers. Their bold leaves would contrast well with the small, complex leaves of Jasminum officinale.

Companion shade plants for hostas

There are so many gorgeous shade garden plants that work beautifully with hostas.

The delightfully modest little wood anemone, Anemone nemorosa, pops up in early spring before plants like hostas have got out of bed. It has simple, single flowers that are white, pale pink or light blue. The wood anemones spread quietly and, just when other more assertive plants are making their spring statements, they unobtrusively disappear, only to make a welcome re-appearance 12 months later.

Another, very different anemone is the Japanese anemone, A. x hybrida. There is nothing modest about this plant -it is very invasive -but because it flowers in the fall it is valuable. It is also lovely and has tall stems of single flowers in pale or deeper pink. The most admired of these anemones is the white form A. x hybrida 'Honorine Jobert'. They all have territorial ambitions and must be kept firmly in check. Aquilegia species, charmingly known as columbines, are the darlings of most gardens, whether in sun or shade. They are particularly beautiful when planted among hostas. Their bell-shaped, spurred flowers add a delicate note to the sturdy hosta leaves beneath. The best species for shade is A. vulgaris, granny's bonnet, which comes in lots of flower colors, including white, pink, blue, yellow and purple, many with contrasting cups or centers. They are not long-lived perennials, but this is not a worry for gardeners, as they seed very freely.

Arisaema are curious plants with hooded flowers enclosing a thin spadix (something that looks like a pencil). The dark ones, like A. sikokianum, look like wicked arum lilies, whereas A. candidissimum is a pink-and-white striped beauty with stunning large oval leaves. A. concinnum is tall and stately with a whorl of narrow leaves at the top of the flower stalk. The flowers on this one tend to be hidden underneath the leaves. In green stripes you can have A. triphyllum or A. jacquemontii, both of which are attractive. In the same green colors are the flowers of A. ringens, but they also have dramatic brown edges. Perfect for a little nook is the mouse plant, A. praecox, whose "mice" hide underneath the leaves.

Astilbe species love damp conditions and partial shade. They kindly flower in the summer when others are finished and rely on their leaves for interest. Astilbes have delicate-looking ferny leaves and plumes of flowers. The most beautiful are:  Astilbe 'Fanal', an Arendsii hybrid which has the most gorgeous crimson flowers, 'Weisse Gloria', with white flowers, and 'Bressingham Beauty' and the graceful 'Betsy Cuperus', both of which flowers are pink. 'Granat' is another one to try; it has bright red flowers.

Cardiocrinum giganteum is commonly called the giant Himalayan lily, but that is the only common thing about it. It has splendid flowers, cream with reddish rays, and the most pervasive sweet scent. If this were not enough to make it a treasure, it also has beautiful large soft green leaves. Then, to add the finishing touch, the flower stems are about 6 ft (2 m) high. Each plant takes some years to flower, but where they are seeding freely there are always more coming on.

Cimicifuga racemosa, black cohosh, is very pretty in a group as a companion planting for hostas. It has tall, bottle-brush-like flowers above and ferny leaves below.

Disporum species, or fairy bells, is another pretty plant that spreads. It has bell-shaped creamy yellow flowers. It "walks around" a bit, but looks well among hostas and other woodland plants.

Epimedium species are very good woodland plants whose interesting leaves contrast nicely with hostas. The leaves are more or less heart-shaped, red in some species and green in others, often turning bronze in winter. Its little flowers are yellow through to reddish tones, and are often nearly obscured by the leaves. The trick is to cut the old leaves down in late winter, allowing the dainty flowers to be seen. It's a very nice, trouble-free plant to own.

Helleborus orientalis make splendid companion plants for hostas, not least because they flower in winter or very early spring, providing beauty while hostas are still only thinking about poking their noses up to test the air. Hybrids of Oriental hellebores have absolutely charming, saucer-shaped flowers in subtle, soft flower colors, from white through to ruby pink, and maroon, purple and reddish shades. The flowers have a boss of stamens resembling a crown. The leaves of hellebores are rather coarse, so it is a good idea to chop them right back before flowering time, then feed the plant well and you will be able to see the divine flowers clearly. They seed and hybridize prolifically, so you never know what new color you might find.

Hyacinthoides (syn. Endymion), or bluebells, are wonderful companion plants for hostas and other shade-lovers. The most commonly seen are the Spanish bluebell, H. hispanicus, and the smaller English bluebell, H. non-scripta. The thing about bluebells is that they flower early and prolifically and create a dazzling display without any care and attention at all. While they are flowering only the earliest hostas are in leaf, and by the time the hostas are looking their best in fresh spring growth, the bluebells have faded. While bluebells are invasive, they can also be considered a weed-suppressing ground cover. As well as the traditional blue bluebell, flowers are pink, mauve and white versions of this pretty bulb.

Meconopsis, the blue Himalayan poppy, really is to die for. Planted among smaller-growing blue hostas like 'Dorset Blue', it is a wonderful sight. The most well-known species is M. betonicifolia, with its heavenly pure sky-blue flowers. Unfortunately, like many aristocrats, it is very particular indeed. Although these poppies like the same conditions as hostas -damp, humus-rich soil that never dries out -that does not necessarily mean that they will thrive. Himalayan poppies are very often monocarpic, which means they flower only once, and they are at best a short-lived perennial. If you wish to have plants coming on all the time, they are quite easy to grow from fresh seed. All this might sound like too much trouble, but these glorious flowers are worth it.

Primula pulverulenta is a great favorite with those who grow primulas. It is tall and vigorous, with large, lettuce-like leaves and flower stems covered with farina (a sort of mealy bloom). The flowers are a deep pinky red with purple eyes. It would be really difficult to choose one candelabra primula above another, but P. pulverulenta is certainly the best in the flower garden.

Pulmonaria species are so much nicer than their name, which somehow sounds like a lung disease; in fact, its common name is lungwort. They are low-growing plants with hairy leaves. Some leaves are plain green but many are beautifully spotted with silver or splashed with white. The flowers are blue, pink, red or white and last for a long time. They look good in front of hostas because their leaves create a very pleasant contrast.

Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot) offers a real challenge. The challenge is not in growing the plant, as that is not difficult, but rather in seeing its enchanting white flowers before, with unseemly haste, the petals fall off. The flower stems appear before the leaves, and each is topped with a bulb-shaped bud that opens to a single flower. The leaves come up folded and vertical before they unfold quite large and lobed. It is a fascinating plant and should be used in a special spot. There is a double form called S. c. 'Flore Pleno' that does not have the attractive simplicity of the single version. It is commonly called bloodroot because, if you cut the fleshy roots, they bleed a red juice.

Symphytum species (comfrey) can be described as a ground cover or an invasive weed. Used carefully, they can be very useful to cover awkward places in the garden. The coarse leaves are quite acceptable and the creamy bell-shaped flowers are very pretty. Keep in mind that these plants are only for rough places, because they will smother anything in their way.

Uvularia species (merrybells) are not used as much as they deserve to be, for they are unusual and pretty plants. Long, bell-shaped flowers of a bright yellow hang down gracefully from the slim green stems. They flower generously for quite a long time over spring and summer.

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