Lilies In Containers And Under Glass

Although many lilies are tall plants, they adapt well to container culture. It is important, though, to choose a big container so that the bulb can be planted as deeply as necessary, and there is a good supply of potting mix to nourish it through to flowering. Also note that any tall lilies are vulnerable to strong winds, and a broad-based wooden tub or barrel will be less likely to blow over in windy conditions.

To plant the lily's bulbs, fill the container half full with a free-draining, commercially available potting mix or make up your own with the following mixture: 8 parts fine bark, 2 parts coarse sand (do not use beach sand because of the salt content) and a handful of slow-release fertilizing granules. Do not use garden soil because it will compact quickly, drainage will be impeded and the lilies will not get sufficient moisture to their roots.

Place the bulbs 4-6 in (10-15 cm) deep and fill the container with the remainder of the mix. Add 1 tbsp. (15 ml) of coated slow-release fertilizer each spring and again before flowering.

Be kind to all your potted lilies in winter. If your area gets frosts, put your potted lilies in a building of some kind to protect them - below-zero conditions will kill them. Keep them in a cool, airy place with strong light, such as a well-ventilated cold greenhouse.

They will also need protection from excessive rain. Lily bulbs remaining in containers over winter must never be saturated. Although the soil should be kept slightly moist, exposure to constant rain will most likely cause them to rot.

In spring, when the new shoots are approximately 3 in (7.5 cm) high the plants are ready to enjoy some sun.

Asiatics multiply quickly and will need repotting after two years.

Lilies are big feeders. During the growing season, lilies in containers will need to be fertilized from time to time if slow-release capsules are not incorporated into the mix before the bulb is planted. A feed of tomato fertilizer every two weeks during summer works well.

If leaf color is a rich green then the root system is working effectively at bringing sufficient nutrients to the whole plant. Where foliage is losing color, the plant is probably running out of food. This could happen if a very big bulb is in a small container. Ideally, it should be replanted, but if it's late in the season, add more fertilizer and top up with some fresh potting mix.

As with those planted in the garden, excellent drainage is of maximum importance. The roots should not be allowed to dry out -but don't confuse moist with waterlogged. They can be overwatered. If the lower leaves turn brown and start to falloff, this could be the problem. A layer of mulch also helps protect the stem roots just below the surface of the soil.

Beware of aphid attack. Aphids carry virus disease and blithely pass it on. Get rid of the fiends as soon as they appear.

To force plants, move the containers to 64-69°F (18-21°C) when shoots appear, and repot them in the fall.

The advantages of growing lilies this way are numerous. Lilies have a regal air and in containers add instant panache to outside areas. They can be moved into or out of shade or to shelter during high winds. They can be sited in the garden to create an effect, and once the flowering is over lilies can be banished from sight to die down in obscurity.

Lilies under glass

The big advantage of a glasshouse is that the gardener can control the environment; lilies can be provided with warmth and moisture at the gardener's, and not the weather's, command. This means that lilies usually start into growth earlier than they would outside and consequently the flowering season can be extended by raising early blooms inside. A glasshouse also lets the gardener attend to the plants at a convenient time, rather than be held up because the soil is too wet or frozen during the only time he or she has free. As with containers, the grower is able to control more accurately the medium in which the lilies are growing. A final advantage, and to many growers a very important one, is that lilies that are too tender to be risked outside can be grown.

Growing lilies under glass seems the ideal but there are problems. Lilies need much more attention both with regard to watering and feeding. The worst problem is that pests and diseases also appreciate the ideal indoor conditions and become more difficult to control. Other pests and diseases that are not experienced outside may also occur.

The simplest way to grow lilies in glasshouses is in containers, but with the advantage of being able to control the atmospheric conditions. In winter, the temperature can be kept just above freezing, or, if earlier flowering is required, it can be stepped up to a minimum of about 45°F (8°C). During the summer the problem is keeping the glasshouse cool. As much ventilation as possible should be given and shading should be applied either in the form of netting or slats, or by applying a shading compound or white-wash to the outside of the glass. Evaporation of water sprayed onto the central path will also help to keep the house cool. Unless the pots are too heavy or there is nowhere to put them, many can be moved out into the open during the summer, which will give the lilies a more natural atmosphere. Do not put the lilies out if heavy rainstorms are expected.

Lilies under glass need not be confined to pots. It is possible, and indeed preferable in some cases, to grow lilies in a specially prepared bed in the glasshouse. Stoloniferous lilies, which 'wander' through the soil, prefer this. The bed can be excavated from the floor of the house or built up from it in the form of a raised bed. The soil used should be the same as used in containers and the treatment will be essentially the same. With a bigger volume of soil, the bed should not dry out so quickly.

Whether the bulbs are in containers or in beds they can be planted in autumn or mid winter and then treat as for container plants grown outside. Particular attention must be paid to any pest or disease that invades the glasshouse, as once present pests and diseases can build up to devastating proportions in a very short time.