Enjoying Roses

Roses as cut flowers

Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice - first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time-up to five days or more after cutting. In general, the more petals a rose has, the slower it will open and the longer it will last. Thus the best roses to use as cut flowers are the fully double varieties. Flowers with fewer petals open quickly and need to be replaced more often. Old garden and shrub roses generally wilt rapidly because their petals lack the substance (thickness and sturdiness) of modern roses and therefore do not make good cut flowers. In addition to the form of a rose, you should consider its blooming stage. A rose will last longer if it is cut when the sepals have separated from the bud and have turned downward, and when the bud has softened, but before the central stamens of the flower are visible. If you squeeze the bud and it is still hard, wait a day or two before cutting it, or it may not open after it is cut.

Roses should be cut from a well-watered plant, late in the afternoon when the sugar and nutrient content of the plant is highest. This provides the bloom with ample energy to develop and open normally, and to stay open longer without wilting. During hot weather, when there is chance that a flower may be somewhat dehydrated by late afternoon, be sure to water the plant well several hours before cutting.

Using pruning shears or flower-cutting shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, no shorter than just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower; you may cut a stem as long as you like, provided that at least two sets of leaves are left on the main stem to act as food producers for future growth and flowering. Carry a bucket of water with you into the garden so that you can place the cut stems in the water immediately, as the flowers will last much longer if the uptake of water is not interrupted for too long and the stems do not dry out. It is all right to submerge the leaves temporarily, as they too will absorb moisture. Although you will not harm a plant if you cut off all its flowers at one time, you may want to leave a few on the plant for garden color. Cutting roses, whether new or faded, will encourage the plants to grow and rebloom quickly.

After you have cut all your roses, recut the stems at a slant, underwater, to permit maximum water absorption. Place the bucket of water containing the cut roses in a cool, dark place such as the basement to allow the roses to become conditioned before arranging them in a vase. Conditioning roses allows them to get used to being detached from the plants and slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. Leave them for at least several hours or preferably overnight. You can condition cut flowers in a refrigerator, as long as the refrigerator is intended only for roses and not for food. Many types of fruit stored in a refrigerator release ethylene gas, a ripening agent that causes cut flowers to open prematurely.

Water for cut flowers is best if it is slightly acidic, as acid water breaks up air bubbles in water by neutralizing the carbon dioxide gas. Air bubbles may clog the capillaries in the stem and prevent water from reaching the flowers and foliage. Water also travels more quickly up a stem when the water is acidic. If you're not sure whether your water is acidic, ask your water company. If it is not acidic, add lemon juice to acidify it. You should not use artificially softened water, as it contains sodium, which is toxic to plants. In most circumstances, use cold water, as this slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. However, if the flowers have wilted-because they have been out of water too long or because the stems were not cut underwater soon enough and the stem ends have become clogged-hot water will revive them faster than cold water because the stems absorb hot water more quickly.

Before placing the roses in a vase, remove any leaves and thorns that will be below the water after arranging, since these will quickly disintegrate, foul the water, and shorten the life of the cut flowers. Thorns can be snapped off by hand or with a special thorn-stripping tool. Then clean the remaining foliage with soap and water if necessary to remove dirt or spray residue, and make the leaves shine by rubbing them with a paper towel, a soft cloth, or a nylon stocking. If any of the leaves are ripped or chewed, they can be manicured with small scissors.

A further tip: If the roses you have picked are exceptionally fragrant, be sure to handle them gently. The petals of fragrant roses have more scent -emitting glands than do those of less-fragrant kinds, and they therefore tend to bruise more easily.

To lengthen the life of your cut roses, always use a clean container for the flowers, and add a floral preservative to the water. Because they are acidic, contain sugar, and include a bacteria-retarding agent, floral preservatives provide some nutrients and restrain and prevent the growth of bacteria that will shorten the life of the flowers. These preservatives can be purchased at a flower shop. If you can't buy floral preservative, mix any clear citrus-based soft drink containing sugar with three parts water; or make a solution of 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon household bleach in one quart of water. Keep the container filled with water to lessen the chance that it will evaporate or be consumed by the roses. If possible, change the water daily and recut the stems underwater each time you change it.

Preserving roses

The life of a cut rose is short and the time between blooming periods is often long. Fortunately roses can be preserved in several ways to extend their beauty. The roses can be dried for arrangements, pressed for display in picture frames, or blended to make fragrant potpourris. All you need are a few simple ingredients and minimal tools and supplies. The results of your efforts can look and smell marvelous, and can last for years.

Roses for preserving can be picked anytime during the season, and are best picked in the morning after the sun has dried the dew. You can cut and preserve roses all summer, and then make home decorations and gifts with them during the winter months. Flowers for drying should be at the peak of perfection when cut; freshness is also critical with roses for pressing and for potpourri.

Both the flowers and the foliage of roses can be dried to make charming arrangements for display around the house. Although many different types of roses can be dried, miniature roses are the most popular because their small flowers dry more easily than larger roses and retain their shape and color better. Along with size, color is an important consideration when choosing roses for drying. Many white roses turn brown when dried, many red roses turn quite black, and some orange roses turn dark at the tips of their petals. Pinks and yellows are a better choice because most of them retain their original color. Even if you are fairly sure you can anticipate the results, you may want to experiment with a few flowers before drying a large batch.

Silica gel is the material that dries roses best. It is a white, crystalline substance resembling table sugar and has the capacity to absorb large quantities of moisture. Sealed into small packets, it is the material sold by photo supply companies for protecting camera equipment. Larger quantities for flower drying are sold at craft and flower shops. A 1 1/2 - pound canister contains enough silica gel to dry several small flowers at once, and it may be reactivated and reused many times. Many brands of silica gel contain small blue indicator crystals that turn pink when it is time to reactivate the substance. To do this, simply spread the silica gel in a shallow; ovenproof container and bake it for 30 minutes to an hour at 250°F, until the crystals turn blue again; or dry it in the microwave for a minute or two. To dry roses, pick flowers that are as perfect as possible, and that are dry, free of insects and debris, and at the desired stage of development. If possible, try to cut flowers with 2 inches of stem to make arranging easier. You can dry anything from tiny buds to fully opened flowers with leaves. Then select a wide, flat-bottomed container with a tight-fitting cover, such as an imported-cookie tin, and spread a 1-inch layer of silica gel in the bottom. Lay the roses on top of it with the flowers facing up, cutting the stems if necessary so as not to bend the flowers over. Take care that none of the flowers touch. Foliage can be dried on the stem, but there is a chance it will break off later on. A better idea is to dry foliage separately from the flowers, laying it flat on silica gel beside them. Cover everything completely with more silica gel, making sure to fill in the flowers with silica gel, and then seal the container tightly for about a week. Flowers dry more uniformly if flowers of the same size are dried together. If you want to dry other types of flowers to use with roses, such as zinnias, marigolds, or asters, it is best to dry them separately, as drying times may vary.

When the roses and the leaves are fully dried, they will feel crisp or papery to the touch. Remove them carefully from the container and gently blow away any silica gel that has stuck to them. If any crystals remain, dust them away lightly with an artist's brush.

A few tricks will help you achieve better and longer-lasting results. Sepals curl as they dry; so if you cut them off before immersing the flowers in silica gel, the result will be more attractive. After a flower has dried, you can insert floral wire into its base and wrap it around the stem. This strengthens the stem and makes it easier to arrange the blooms. If you are leaving a stem on the flower, it's better to insert the wire through the stem before drying, as the stem would be more likely to break after drying. To strengthen a dried rose, apply a few drops of white glue to the undersides of the outer petals to make them less likely to falloff. To make a dried rose less brittle and also less likely to reabsorb moisture, spray it with clear plastic, or dip it in warm, melted paraffin, which will give the rose a waxy coating.

You can also dry roses in a microwave oven; in fact, the resulting color and shape of the flowers will actually be better than if the roses are dried in a tin. It's best to dry only one flower at a time to avoid crowding and over drying. First, dry and heat the silica gel at the high setting for about a minute. Then prepare the roses as described above, using an uncovered microwavable container.

Roses can also be dried in white cornmeal mixed with borax, or fine sand mixed with borax. However, drying takes twice as long as silica gel and is not as satisfactory; since the materials tend to cake on the flowers and the flowers are more likely to develop burn spots. Follow the same steps as for silica gel, but place flowers face down rather than face up and leave the container open. All in all, silica gel is far superior. Roses do not air-dry satisfactorily.

Roses can be combined with many other dried flowers-asters, baby's breath, marigolds, yarrow, and zinnias, as well as combined with other types of foliage. Dried roses can also be wired onto wreaths and garlands. A dried arrangement can last for many years, depending on the humidity in the room. If it gets dusty, brush the dust off gently with a feather duster or an artist's brush. In humid climates protect the arrangement in a glass bell jar.

Pressed roses

Pressed roses make lovely material for small framed "pictures," collages, or gift cards. Although many kinds of roses can be pressed, the best results are obtained with single flowers or those with fewer than 12 to 15 petals. Buds may also be pressed. Pick the flowers or buds when they are fresh and dry; and press them immediately. Roses can be pressed in a heavy book or in a flower press. Pressing by either method takes about two weeks.

To prepare roses for a flower press, place them between pieces of blotting paper and separate each layer with a sheet of corrugated cardboard. Carefully insert this stack into the press and tighten the wing nuts evenly. As with the book method, check the pressed materials every few days and change the paper if it is wet. Most material will be completely dry in about two weeks.

To make a pressed-flower picture, buy a picture frame with a glass covering and a stiff backing. Using white household glue, cover the backing with a fabric of the color you desire; velveteen is excellent, although any type of heavy material can be used. Sketch out your design first and then, using tweezers to handle the flowers and the foliage, set them in place on the fabric with white household glue. A toothpick or a small brush can be used to apply the glue evenly and lightly. Once the arrangement is finished and the glue has dried, place the glass and the rest of the frame in place, and hang it up to enjoy it, or give it as a gift.

Potpourri

Potpourri is a mixture of dried rose petals, aromatic oils, other scents derived from herbs or spices, sometimes other dried flowers, and a fixative to retain the aroma. Although potpourris can be made with flowers other than roses, roses are traditionally the main ingredient. The word potpourri is a French term meaning "rotten pot," which derives from the original practice of placing rose petals in a container to ripen and age.

Although it is tempting to enjoy roses in the garden and then collect the petals for potpourri as they start to drop, this method is not satisfactory because the petals are past their peak and will not dry and retain their fragrance properly. Any type of rose of any color can be used to make potpourri; just be sure to use fragrant roses.

Today, potpourri is made by two methods-the dry method and the moist method. The dry method, which uses only thoroughly dried rose petals, makes potpourri displayed in glass bowls and in sachets to perfume lingerie drawers. Potpourri in glass bowls can last for 10 years or more, whereas that in sachets usually loses its fragrance after 2 years or so. The moist method, using partially dried petals, creates potpourri that is less attractive to view but whose scent lasts much longer-up to 50 years. Moist potpourri is used in glass bowls as well.

Dry potpourri

Gather petals from fragrant roses after the morning dew has dried, and spread them on an elevated screen out of the sunlight and in a warm, dry, airy place. Drying will take several days to a week, depending on heat and humidity. The petals should be dry enough that they break easily when bent. If you cannot dry enough petals at once, store the dried petals in an airtight glass jar until you have enough.
In a large glass or wooden bowl, mix 1 quart of dried petals with about 1 ounce by weight of dried herbs or spices of the scent you desire-for example, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, lemon verbena, or mint. You may also add other dried flowers: carnations, lavender, and orange blossoms are most common, as they retain their scent long after drying. Place several drops of aromatic oil on 2 ounces of fixative such as orris root or benzoin (congealed resin from the styrax tree) and gently blend this into the rose petals and spice/herb mix with a wooden spoon. Use chunks of  fixative rather than powder, as the latter can cling to the container and cloud the glass. Aromatic oils of cinnamon, cloves, lavender, lemon, rose, and sandalwood are the ones most often used.
Store the mixture in a dark, cool place in an airtight container, stirring or shaking often. Test the scents periodically. They will smell harsh at first; this is natural-do not try to compensate by adding other fragrances to the mix. After 3 to 12 weeks aging will be complete and the mixture will have a pleasant aroma. Place the potpourri in a covered glass container, adding other dried flowers for color. Remove the cover when you wish to scent the room.

Moist potpourri

To make moist potpourri, dry rose petals until they are limp but not completely dry. Mix them with the dried herbs and spices whose scents you desire, and then place a 2- inch layer of the mixture into a ceramic or glass bowl. Add a thin layer of noniodized salt, then two more inches of petals, and repeat until the bowl is full. Press the mixture down with a weight, and mix daily. The mixture will be completely aged in about two weeks.
Fixative is not needed-the salt absorbs and retains the scents. If the mixture loses some of its scent, it can be revived with a few drops of brandy.

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