Planting Roses

When you purchase a rose bush, the first is to be sure that your rose does not dry out while you prepare the planting hole. As soon as you get your rose, plunge the root ball in water for several hours. This will allow the flower to absorb as much water as it can hold. After the roots have sat in the water for up to 12 hours, take the bush out for planting. If you cannot plant the rose immediately, bury the roots in a trench in your garden or in damp bark or sawdust until you are ready. Remember that even a few minutes in a dry spot, especially in the sun, can mean disaster.

Very often the rose you purchase will be a container-grown plant. If this is the case, be sure that any long, spiraling roots are teased out when you plant such a rose. If the roots have become a dense mass on the outside of the root ball and separating them is difficult, make several shallow cuts with a knife up and down the root ball. This will force the formation of smaller roots, which will grow into the new soil. Root bound plants, if not unbound, will often not grow into the surrounding soil, and in the worst of cases can strangle themselves to death. Root bound plants are also easily pushed out of the ground by frost heave in northern areas.

When you prepare the planting hole, first remove any weeds, particularly their roots, from in and around the site. Dig a hole that is wide enough for the entire root system to be spread out, and dig it deep enough so that the roots will be entirely underground. Most roses are budded roses. Such roses have a bud of the variety inserted under the bark of a rootstock. At the union of the rootstock and variety a bulbous crook is formed. This union should be buried at least 4 in. (10 cm) below the soil surface. The soil will protect the union from the more severe winter temperatures and will help prevent suckering from the rootstock. Roses grown from cuttings or layers can be planted at the same depth as they were previously growing, or slightly deeper if you wish.

If you have a reasonably loose loam, it is an advantage to work compost or well-rotted manure into the hole. A handful of bone meal is also advisable, as this gives the plant a long-term source of phosphorus, which is needed for root development. If you wish to use peat moss, be sure that it is well moistened before you put it in the hole. Be careful not to have the peat moss account for more than one-quarter of the volume of the soil, as this may be too light a mix and may cause the hole to dry out quickly This is especially important with heavier clay soils. These denser soils will tend to draw water away from the lighter soil within the hole. Your rose will not receive adequate water. If you have a clay soil, it is usually better to replace around your rose roots the same clay you dug out of the hole. Adding some compost and bone meal is fine. After the rose is planted, place the greater part of your compost and organic materials at the surface, where the feeder roots will form and make best use of these nutrients.

When planting the rose, be sure to work the soil around the root system so that no air pockets remain. These delay the formation of the smaller roots, which are so important in establishing your rose. Once you have worked the soil to the top, tamp firmly with your hands or feet. Leave a slight depression on the surface and fill this with water. Once it soaks in, fill the depression again until you are sure that the entire hole is completely saturated. If you are mulching, spread the mulch on the surface and give one more watering.

The most important part of establishing a new rose is watering. Keep a regular schedule of watering, giving the rose the equivalent of at least 1 or 1 1/2 in (2 or 4 cm) of rain a week. That is a fair amount of water. Be sure to soak the hole well. A few sprays on the surface will not do your rose any good. It takes more water than most people think to thoroughly soak down to the bottom of a planting hole. If you are faithful about watering, your rose will repay you with good growth and more prolific blooming. Even a weak plant will thrive if given enough water. However, a plant can be over watered, particularly in heavier clay soils. If the roots are kept too wet, they will lack sufficient oxygen.

Planting roses in containers

Growing roses in containers is a practical way to make the most of your garden space. You can display them when they are blooming and remove them when they are bare and severely pruned. Roses in containers can also add decorative touches around the garden or on the patio, porch, or deck. Because roses grown in containers are showcase plants, choose varieties that are compact and free-flowering for maximum visual appeal. You can plant either bare-root or container-grown roses, but the latter seem to get a better start because their roots are already growing in a confined space.

Choosing a container

For all roses, too little root space leads to stunted growth and poor flower production. For full-sized rosebushes, the ideal container is in the 15- to 20-gallon range to provide roots with adequate growing space. A container 18 inches across and deep is a minimum size. Containers for miniature roses should be in the 5- to 7-gallon size (a minimum of 12 inches across and deep). Because their roots tend to spread out, miniature roses are best in containers that are wider than they are tall.
Containers can be made of a variety of materials, including wood, clay, cement, and plastic. Stay away from metal containers for outdoor growing because they absorb too much heat and can stifle growth. Whatever type of container you use, be sure it has adequate drainage as rose roots do not like to sit in water. Choose a container with drainage holes at the bottom or on the sides near the bottom.
If drainage holes are absent and cannot be drilled, plant the rose in a smaller container that has holes and set it inside the larger container. Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the solid container to raise the inner container above the drainage water. Although you can grow a large rose in a container that lacks drainage holes by placing a deep layer of gravel and charcoal in the bottom, it is not advisable because you must take great care not to overwater.

Planting a rose in a container

Because root space is so limited in a container and roots cannot forage far and wide for water, nutrients, and oxygen, plants growing in containers have special needs for a growing medium. It is best to avoid native soil from your garden. No matter how well-amended and earthworm laden your soil is, it is too heavy for roses in containers and will not provide optimal drainage and aeration. Native soil can also harbor harmful insects and diseases. Instead, use an all-purpose, premium soil mix available in bags and packages at garden centers.
Set the plant in the container in the same way that you would plant it in the ground, positioning the bud union or crown at soil level about 1 inch below the rim of the container. Water well.

Container culture

Place the container where it will receive at least six hours of sun each day. Avoid putting a container where it will become too hot, such as on an asphalt driveway or against a highly reflective wall. Feed regularly with a plant food formulated for roses, and keep roots evenly moist. In hot weather you may need to water daily.
When a rose outgrows its container, it needs to be repotted. Check the soil surface to see if it is too dense with roots. If the plant wilts even when you water frequently, then it is probably time to repot. To repot, simply remove the plant from its pot, clean some of the soil off the roots and prune them by one-third, then replant in a container that is a few inches larger than the old one. Be sure to use fresh new potting mix. Roses grow quickly and may need repotting every two or three months.