Herbs In The Kitchen

The tradition of using herbs to flavour foods is nothing new. It is, in fact, almost as old as the human species itself. Archaeologists have found evidence which suggests that the earliest cooks used parts of certain plants to season and improve the flavour of particular foods. Mustard seed was chewed with meat, it seems, and the seeds of wild wheat and barley were sprinkled on other foods to add a nutty taste.

These herbs would, of course, have been found growing wild, and the cultivation of herbs for culinary and medicinal use came much later. In grand old gardens, a special section would be set aside for the growing of herbs, while in humbler plots herbs might be grown among other food plants. This delightful tradition is well worth continuing: what could be more satisfying than being able to pick fresh herbs from your own garden to add to the dishes for a summer lunch, or the evening meal? The aroma alone as you pick the herbs is the perfect appetizer.

The range of herbs, even for culinary purposes, is huge; and few of us nowadays will have either the space, time or inclination to grow all the varieties found in the traditional herb garden. Nevertheless, a small bed of the more common herbs - or just a selection of pots by the kitchen door, on a balcony or window sill will give your cooking a fresh and distinctive flavour.

Cooking with herbs

Herbs used in cooking may be fresh, dried, or frozen. Fresh herbs do not have the concentrated flavour of the dried variety but make up for this by being more aromatic - just try crushing a fresh leaf between your fingers and breathing in its glorious scent.

Fresh herbs can be used in cooked dishes (in which case, add them towards the end of the cooking time to retain their freshness of flavour). However, the best way to preserve their 'straight-from-the-garden' quality is, in many cases, to use them in their natural state - raw. The traditional sprig of parsley or scattering of chives certainly looks attractive, but do consider using certain of the softer-leaved herbs as ingredients in their own right. Quantities of finely chopped mint combined with yogurt make the classic Greek tsatsiki -the perfect summer cooler -while whole basil leaves added to an ordinary green salad move this everyday accompaniment several rungs up the culinary ladder. Of course, there are certain herbs that are too tough in their raw state to be used in this way, such as rosemary or bay, and these are best added to cooked dishes.

The drying of herbs intensifies their flavour, and means that herbal flavourings can be made available throughout the year, and not just in the summer growing season. Dried herbs are used in cooked foods, and can transform the most basic of dishes into something delicious and memorable. Frozen herbs bridge the gap between the fresh and dried varieties, and make it possible for the cook to evoke memories of summer even in the depths of winter. Even after thawing, however, frozen herbs will not give the same results as fresh ones in such dishes as salads, where the herbs act as ingredients rather than just flavourings.

Whatever form of herb you are using - fresh, dried or frozen - it is important to know which herbs have an affinity with which foods. While the standard 'mixed herbs' product of the supermarket shelf is a good all-rounder in the kitchen and can do much to enliven an otherwise bland sauce or ,bake, the real trick for the creative cook is to choose the herb that will best complement and bring out the flavour of a particular food. Tarragon, for example, is superb with roast chicken, while fennel seems to have been made for fish. The aromas and tastes of certain herbs can also evoke the cuisine of a particular country or region. Coriander, for example, conjures up images of Greece and the Middle East; basil, with its affinity with, tomatoes and pasta, recalls Italy; while sage, often used to flavour fresh pork, pork sausages or earthy vegetables such as broad beans, brings echoes of the hearty farmhouse cooking of Northern Europe.

Seasonings and garnishes

Here are some quick and easy ways to bring the delicious flavour of herbs to your cooking, and to give your dishes visual appeal, too.

Bouquet garni

This method of flavouring food comes from classic French cuisine. Bouquet garni is best used in 'wet' recipes such as stocks, soups, stews, or poached vegetables, fish or meat, in which the cooking liquid absorbs the flavour of the herbs which then soaks into the ingredients. Two or three sprigs of fresh parsley, along with a single sprig or leaf of two or three other herbs, provides the basis of a bouquet garni. Experiment and find the combinations you like best for different foods.

• Kitchen twine or strong sewing thread
• One of the following combinations of fresh herbs:
  • parsley, bay, sage
  • parsley, mint, chives
  • parsley, fennel, thyme, bay
  • parsley, tarragon, bay, chives
  • parsley, lemon thyme, bay, savory
  • parsley, lovage, marjoram, bay
  • parsley, rosemary, sage
  • thyme, rosemary, oregano, bay
  • fennel, dill, bay

Tie the herbs together securely at the stalk end with the twine or thread. Immerse in the cooking liquid. Remove before serving.

Saltless seasoning

Too much salt in our food is not considered good for health, so here is a salt-free seasoning mix which you can use instead. Having a pre-prepared quantity on hand means that you can quickly season a vinaigrette or some steamed vegetables without having to spend extra time slicing and chopping. Keep your seasoning in a  shaker with large holes in the lid -an old salt canister or spice jar, thoroughly washed and dried, will do. Whatever you use, it should have a cap to keep the mixture airtight; alternatively, seal with clingfilm.

• 50g/2 oz dried onion flakes
• 50g/2oz dried dill leaves
• 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 2 teaspoons celery seeds
• 2 teaspoons dried lemon peel
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Grind all the ingredients together in a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder. Place in a shaker and cap or seal tightly.

Herbs oils and vinegars

The addition of a few well-chosen herbs can turn an ordinary culinary oil or vinegar into a gourmet item. Suitably trimmed and wrapped, home-made herb-flavoured oils and vinegars can make original, and delicious, gifts.

Flavoured oils

Herb-flavoured oils can be used in marinades or vinaigrettes, brushed over meat or fish prior to grilling, or drizzled, Italian- style, over chunky toasted slices of baguette. Virgin olive oil or light sesame oil are best for this purpose, but other 'healthy' oils, such as sunflower or walnut, work well, too. Don't forget to label your oils so that you know what the bottles contain. Adding a fresh herb sprig to the oil before finally sealing makes an attractive touch, and intensifies the flavour.

• 600ml/1pint oil of your choice
• 6 tablespoons of chopped herbs in one of the following combinations:
  • basil, lemon thyme, rosemary
  • thyme, rosemary, shallots
  • basil, lemon thyme, chives, burnet, garlic
  • tarragon, lemon balm, green peppercorns
  • dill leaves, dill seeds, burnet, garlic

Use a mortar and pestle to pound the herbs to a paste. Add a few drops of the oil and stir to a cream, then slowly add the remaining oil. Pour the mixture into a clean, dry jar, cover and leave to steep for two weeks, shaking or stirring once or twice a day. Strain into a clean bottle, seal, label and store.

Herb vinegars

The addition of a herb vinegar will give an instant lift to an ordinary vinaigrette, but try using it in other ways, too. Stews, soups and sauces all benefit from a splash of herb vinegar towards the end of the cooking time, and it can also replace some or all of the wine called for in a recipe. The delicate herbal flavour will be ruined if you use one of the brash malt vinegars, though; opt instead for a good-quality white wine or cider vinegar.

• 600ml/1 pint white wine or cider vinegar
• A good quantity of herbs such as basil, tarragon, bay leaves, thyme or mint

There is no need to chop or pound the herbs -just pack the fresh leaves straight into a jar, pour over the vinegar, cover, and leave to steep on a sunny windowsill for two weeks, shaking once or twice a day. Strain into a clean bottle, add a fresh herb sprig if you wish, seal, and store in a cool, dark place. Experiment with combinations of different herbs, too.

Father Kunzle's oil
German bactericidal oil
Healing oil
Refreshing analgesic oil
Regenerating oil
St. John's oil
Raspberry vinegar
Rue Vinegar for the Bath
Tarragon vinegar
Vinegar with caraway
Oil and vinegar dressing

Sauces and spreads

An aromatic herb butter, bringing with it all the scents of a summer garden, or a homemade herb sauce, can instantly transform the humblest and most plainly cooked of foods into something really special, and to end the meal, what could be more memorable that a selection of savory biscuits served with a homemade herb cheese?

Herb butter

Parsley is the herb most commonly used in herb butters, but there are plenty of other alternatives. Try basil, mint, tarragon, or a combination of different herbs. You will need to choose carefully, however, because some herbs are not suitable for this purpose. Rosemary, for example, is too strong in flavour and coarse in texture to combine successfully with the smoothness and delicacy of the butter. Choose those herbs, too, that will best complement the food with which you are going to serve them. Mint butter melting over new potatoes is one excellent example of a perfect partnership.

• 100g/4oz unsalted butter
• 4-5 tablespoons of your chosen herb
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice

If the butter is too hard to work, leave it at room temperature to soften. Mash it with a fork, working in the lemon juice, and then the herbs. Make sure all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Spread on a saucer and place in the refrigerator to harden, then cut into cubes and arrange on a butter dish, or place on cooked foods just before serving.

Garlic butter
Linguini with white clam sauce

Summer coolers

The leaves and flowers of herbs seem to embody the essence of summer, and there are numerous refreshing drinks containing herbs to cool you down on those sweltering mid-summer days. If you like the recipes offered here, you can go on to create your own delicious herb drinks, such as herb-flavoured fruit punches or creamy milk shakes.

Decorative ice cubes

Ice cubes containing herb flowers or leaves look especially pretty in summer drinks. Half-fill the ice trays with water, and to each compartment add a flower, leaf or sprig of herbs such as borage, mint, thyme, violets or lavender. Top up with water and freeze in the usual way.

Festive summertime drinks

Here are two festive drinks that encapsulate the spirit of those lazy days of high summer. Serve them as delicious aperitifs to meals eaten al fresco, whether these be buffet parties in the garden, or leisurely Sunday lunches on the patio with friends.

Minty-lemonade

Homemade lemonade offers a completely different culinary experience from the fizzy and highly sweetened commercial drink of the same name. The addition of mint makes this recipe particularly refreshing. Try to use - organically grown -or at least unwaxed - fruit for this recipe.

• 3 lemons, plus extra juice to taste if needed
• 1 orange
• 250g/8 oz honey, or more to taste
• 50g/2oz finely chopped fresh mint leaves
• 50g/2oz finely fresh lemon balm leaves
• 300ml/10fl. oz boiling water
• 1 litre/4 pints cold water
• Sprigs of fresh mint and lemon balm, to decorate

Peel the rind from the lemons and orange, being sure to remove any of the bitter white pith. Set aside while you squeeze out the juice. In a large heat-proof jug or bowl, combine the peel, honey and chopped herbs. Pour on the boiling water, and stir until the honey is blended in well. Allow to steep for 30 minutes. Then add the lemon and orange juice. Pour into a clean jug and add the cold water. Add extra honey and lemon juice to taste, as required. Chill for one hour. Pour into tumblers over ice cubes, and decorate with the herb sprigs.

Iced mint tea

Made in large quantities, this is the perfect drink for a summer garden party. Reduce the quantities proportionately if you are catering for a smaller occasion. The addition of sparkling soda water creates a very different beverage from the usual mint tea.
To make approximately 6 litres ( 1 1/4 gallons )

• 3 litres/120fl. oz strong tea
• 1.5 litres/60fl. oz soda water
• 750g/11/2 lb caster sugar
• 450ml/15fl. oz lemon juice
• mint sprigs and ice, to serve
• slices of lemon and orange, to decorate

Pour the tea into a large bowl or enameled saucepan, add the sugar and leave to cool. Stir in the lemon juice and add the soda water. Spoon the mixture into jugs. Add ice cubes and mint to decorate. Slices of lemon or orange also make an attractive addition.

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