Herbs In The Kitchen
The tradition of using herbs to flavour foods
is nothing new. It is, in fact, almost as old as
the human species itself. Archaeologists have
found evidence which suggests that the
earliest cooks used parts of certain plants to
season and improve the flavour of particular
foods. Mustard seed was chewed with meat,
it seems, and the seeds of wild wheat and
barley were sprinkled on other foods to add
a nutty taste.
These herbs would, of course, have been
found growing wild, and the cultivation of
herbs for culinary and medicinal use came
much later. In grand old gardens, a special
section would be set aside for the growing of
herbs, while in humbler plots herbs might be
grown among other food plants. This
delightful tradition is well worth continuing:
what could be more satisfying than being
able to pick fresh herbs from your own
garden to add to the dishes for a summer lunch, or the evening meal? The aroma alone
as you pick the herbs is the perfect appetizer.
The range of herbs, even for culinary
purposes, is huge; and few of us nowadays
will have either the space, time or inclination
to grow all the varieties found in the
traditional herb garden. Nevertheless, a
small bed of the more common herbs -or
just a selection of pots by the kitchen door,
on a balcony or window sill will give your
cooking a fresh and distinctive flavour.
Cooking with herbs
Herbs used in cooking may be fresh, dried,
or frozen. Fresh herbs do not have the
concentrated flavour of the dried variety but
make up for this by being more aromatic -
just try crushing a fresh leaf between your
fingers and breathing in its glorious scent.
Fresh herbs can be used in cooked dishes (in
which case, add them towards the end of the
cooking time to retain their freshness of
flavour). However, the best way to preserve
their 'straight-from-the-garden' quality is, in
many cases, to use them in their natural state
-raw. The traditional sprig of parsley or
scattering of chives certainly looks
attractive, but do consider using certain of
the softer-leaved herbs as ingredients in their
own right. Quantities of finely chopped mint
combined with yogurt make the classic
Greek tsatsiki -the perfect summer
cooler -while whole basil leaves added to an
ordinary green salad move this everyday
accompaniment several rungs up the culinary
ladder. Of course, there are certain herbs
that are too tough in their raw state to be
used in this way, such as rosemary or
bay,
and these are best added to cooked dishes.
The drying of herbs intensifies their flavour,
and means that herbal flavourings can be
made available throughout the year, and not
just in the summer growing season. Dried
herbs are used in cooked foods, and can
transform the most basic of dishes into
something delicious and memorable.
Frozen herbs bridge the gap between the
fresh and dried varieties, and make it
possible for the cook to evoke memories of
summer even in the depths of winter. Even
after thawing, however, frozen herbs will not
give the same results as fresh ones in such
dishes as salads, where the herbs act as
ingredients rather than just flavourings.
Whatever form of herb you are using -fresh,
dried or frozen -it is important to know
which herbs have an affinity with which
foods. While the standard 'mixed herbs'
product of the supermarket shelf is a good
all-rounder in the kitchen and can do much
to enliven an otherwise bland sauce or ,bake,
the real trick for the creative cook is
to choose the herb that will best complement
and bring out the flavour of a particular
food. Tarragon, for example, is superb with
roast chicken, while fennel seems to have
been made for fish. The aromas and tastes of
certain herbs can also evoke the cuisine of a
particular country or region. Coriander, for
example, conjures up images of Greece and
the Middle East; basil, with its affinity with,
tomatoes and pasta, recalls Italy; while sage,
often used to flavour fresh pork, pork sausages or earthy vegetables such as
broad beans, brings echoes of the hearty farmhouse cooking of Northern Europe.
Seasonings and garnishes
Here are some quick and easy ways to
bring the delicious flavour of herbs to
your cooking, and to give your dishes
visual appeal, too.
- Bouquet garni
- This method of flavouring food comes from classic French cuisine.
Bouquet garni is best used in 'wet' recipes such as stocks, soups,
stews, or poached vegetables, fish or meat, in which the cooking
liquid absorbs the flavour of the herbs which then soaks
into the ingredients. Two or three sprigs of fresh parsley, along
with a single sprig or leaf of two or three
other herbs, provides the basis of a bouquet
garni. Experiment and find the combinations
you like best for different foods.
- Kitchen twine or strong sewing thread
- One of the following combinations of fresh herbs:
- parsley, bay, sage
- parsley, mint, chives
- parsley, fennel, thyme, bay
- parsley, tarragon, bay, chives
- parsley, lemon thyme, bay, savory
- parsley, lovage, marjoram, bay
- parsley, rosemary, sage
- thyme, rosemary, oregano, bay
- fennel, dill, bay
Tie the herbs together securely at the stalk
end with the twine or thread. Immerse in the
cooking liquid. Remove before serving.
- Saltless seasoning
- Too much salt in our food is not considered
good for health, so here is a salt-free
seasoning mix which you can use instead.
Having a pre-prepared quantity on hand
means that you can quickly season a
vinaigrette or some steamed vegetables
without having to spend extra time slicing
and chopping. Keep your seasoning in a shaker with large holes in the lid -an old
salt canister or spice jar, thoroughly washed
and dried, will do. Whatever you use, it
should have a cap to keep the mixture
airtight; alternatively, seal with clingfilm.
- 50g/2 oz dried onion flakes
- 50g/2oz dried dill leaves
- 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted
- 1 tablespoon dried thyme
- 2 teaspoons dried oregano
- 2 teaspoons celery seeds
- 2 teaspoons dried lemon peel
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Grind all the ingredients together in a
mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder. Place
in a shaker and cap or seal tightly.
Herbs oils and vinegars
The addition of a few well-chosen herbs can
turn an ordinary culinary oil or vinegar into
a gourmet item. Suitably trimmed and
wrapped, home-made herb-flavoured oils
and vinegars can make original, and delicious, gifts.
- Flavoured oils
- Herb-flavoured oils can be used in
marinades or vinaigrettes, brushed over meat
or fish prior to grilling, or drizzled, Italian-
style, over chunky toasted slices of baguette.
Virgin olive oil or light sesame oil are best
for this purpose, but other 'healthy' oils, such as
sunflower or walnut, work well, too.
Don't forget to label your oils so that you
know what the bottles contain. Adding a
fresh herb sprig to the oil before finally
sealing makes an attractive touch, and intensifies the flavour.
- 600ml/1pint oil of your choice
- 6 tablespoons of chopped herbs in one of the following combinations:
- basil, lemon thyme, rosemary
- thyme, rosemary, shallots
- basil, lemon thyme, chives, burnet, garlic
- tarragon, lemon balm, green peppercorns
- dill leaves, dill seeds, burnet, garlic
Use a mortar and pestle to pound the herbs
to a paste. Add a few drops of the oil and
stir to a cream, then slowly add the
remaining oil. Pour the mixture into a clean, dry
jar, cover and leave to steep for two weeks,
shaking or stirring once or twice a day.
Strain into a clean bottle, seal, label and store.
- Herb vinegars
- The addition of a herb vinegar will give an
instant lift to an ordinary vinaigrette, but try
using it in other ways, too. Stews, soups and
sauces all benefit from a splash of herb
vinegar towards the end of the cooking time,
and it can also replace some or all of the
wine called for in a recipe. The delicate
herbal flavour will be ruined if you use one
of the brash malt vinegars, though; opt
instead for a good-quality white wine or cider vinegar.
- 600ml/1 pint white wine or cider vinegar
- A good quantity of herbs such as basil, tarragon, bay leaves, thyme or mint
There is no need to chop or pound the herbs
-just pack the fresh leaves straight into a jar,
pour over the vinegar, cover, and leave to
steep on a sunny windowsill for two weeks,
shaking once or twice a day. Strain into a
clean bottle, add a fresh herb sprig if you
wish, seal, and store in a cool, dark place.
Experiment with combinations of
different herbs, too.
- Father Kunzle's oil
German bactericidal oil
Healing oil
Refreshing analgesic oil
Regenerating oil
St. John's oil
Raspberry vinegar
Rue Vinegar for the Bath
Tarragon vinegar
Vinegar with caraway
Oil and vinegar dressing
Sauces and spreads
An aromatic herb butter, bringing with it all
the scents of a summer garden, or a
homemade herb sauce, can instantly
transform the humblest and most plainly
cooked of foods into something really
special, and to end the meal, what could be
more memorable that a selection of savory
biscuits served with a homemade herb cheese?
- Herb butter
- Parsley is the herb most commonly used in
herb butters, but there are plenty of other
alternatives. Try basil, mint, tarragon, or a
combination of different herbs. You will
need to choose carefully, however, because
some herbs are not suitable for this
purpose. Rosemary, for example,
is too strong in flavour and coarse in texture to
combine successfully with the smoothness
and delicacy of the butter. Choose those herbs, too,
that will best complement the food with which
you are going to serve them. Mint butter melting
over new potatoes is one excellent example of a perfect partnership.
- 100g/4oz unsalted butter
- 4-5 tablespoons of your chosen herb
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
If the butter is too hard to work, leave it at
room temperature to soften. Mash it with a
fork, working in the lemon juice, and then
the herbs. Make sure all the ingredients are
thoroughly combined. Spread on a saucer
and place in the refrigerator to harden, then
cut into cubes and arrange on a butter dish,
or place on cooked foods just before serving.
- Garlic butter
Linguini with white clam sauce
Summer coolers
The leaves and flowers of herbs seem to
embody the essence of summer, and there are
numerous refreshing drinks containing herbs
to cool you down on those sweltering
mid-summer days. If you like the recipes
offered here, you can go on to create your
own delicious herb drinks, such as
herb-flavoured fruit punches or creamy milk shakes.
- Decorative ice cubes
- Ice cubes containing herb flowers or leaves look especially pretty in summer drinks.
Half-fill the ice trays with water, and to each compartment add a flower, leaf
or sprig of herbs such as borage, mint, thyme,
violets or
lavender.
Top up with water and freeze in the usual way.
Festive summertime drinks
Here are two festive drinks that encapsulate
the spirit of those lazy days of high summer.
Serve them as delicious aperitifs to meals
eaten al fresco, whether these be buffet
parties in the garden, or leisurely Sunday
lunches on the patio with friends.
- Minty-lemonade
- Homemade lemonade offers a completely
different culinary experience from the fizzy
and highly sweetened commercial drink of
the same name. The addition of mint makes
this recipe particularly refreshing. Try to use - organically grown -or at least unwaxed - fruit for this recipe.
- 3 lemons, plus extra juice to taste if needed
- 1 orange
- 250g/8 oz honey, or more to taste
- 50g/2oz finely chopped fresh mint leaves
- 50g/2oz finely fresh lemon balm leaves
- 300ml/10fl. oz boiling water
- 1 litre/4 pints cold water
- Sprigs of fresh mint and lemon balm, to decorate
Peel the rind from the lemons and orange,
being sure to remove any of the bitter white
pith. Set aside while you squeeze out the
juice. In a large heat-proof jug or bowl,
combine the peel, honey and chopped herbs.
Pour on the boiling water, and stir until the
honey is blended in well. Allow to steep for
30 minutes. Then add the lemon and orange
juice. Pour into a clean jug and add the cold
water. Add extra honey and lemon juice to
taste, as required. Chill for one hour. Pour
into tumblers over ice cubes, and decorate
with the herb sprigs.
- Iced mint tea
- Made in large quantities, this is the perfect
drink for a summer garden party. Reduce
the quantities proportionately if you are
catering for a smaller occasion. The addition
of sparkling soda water creates a very
different beverage from the usual mint tea.
To make approximately 6 litres ( 1 1/4 gallons )
- 3 litres/120fl. oz strong tea
- 1.5 litres/60fl. oz soda water
- 750g/11/2 lb caster sugar
- 450ml/15fl. oz lemon juice
- mint sprigs and ice, to serve
- slices of lemon and orange, to decorate
Pour the tea into a large bowl or
enameled saucepan, add the sugar and leave
to cool. Stir in the lemon juice and add the
soda water. Spoon the mixture into jugs.
Add ice cubes and mint to decorate. Slices of
lemon or orange also make an attractive addition.
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